My Female rabbit is pregnant, and i just need to know a couple things, How long is the gestation period for these wonderful critters?? Shes a Dutch rabbit and i bred her to a Lilac buck. How Many babies will she likely have? When they bred Rain(female) alloud Buttersctoch(male) to mount her 3 times. The the day after i read that its good to let them out together again and see if she refuses him then shes pregnant, if she doesnt shes not. So i let them out again and she alloud him to mount her one more time then she refused her all other times. Then again today i let them out and she refused him all together. So is she likely pregnant?? The times they bred before he mounted her and humped away.....then he bit her back (just pulling a little hair, nothing serious) and his eyes rolled to the back of his head and he just fell off. Is that a bunny orgasm or did something go wrong?? Did his goods go where they needed to go? sorry about all the questions, i just want everything to go smooth
Gestation Period For Pregnant Rabbit And Advice?
This is not just about dutch rabbits, I hand it out to anyone who buys any of my rabbit breeds.
I breed standard rex, dutch, harlequins, magpies and dwarf lops.
History
Dutch rabbits, along with the English, were the most popular pet and exhibition rabbits a position that has now been filled by the Lop breeds. Originally from Holland or Belgium, the breed is striking in its appearance with a white blaze carrying up to a point between the ears, a saddle of colour continuing right around the middle of the rabbit with a straight edge and white markings on the hind feet. Their coat should be glossy and they are a medium size rabbit weighing 2.04 -2. 26 kg (4.5 lb. 5 lb.).
Behaviour
Dutch rabbits are very lively and alert and should make good pets although a prospective owner should be looking for a breeder that handles the rabbits regularly from a young age so that the rabbit is not too jumpy. Colours Black, Blue, Chocolate, Yellow, Tortoiseshell, Steel Grey, Brown Grey, Pale Grey and Tri Colour
By using body language rabbits can stamp their feet or with a flash of a tail they can be seen and heard by other rabbits over a long distance.
Feeding Rabbits require a high fibre with lots of hay (dried grass) or straw and low protein feed to prevent digestive problems. Use rabbit pellets which can be purchased from pet shops to provide all your rabbits dietary needs, along with all types of fresh fruit, vegetables (green stuffs) and all types of roots. Most green stuffs are suitable for rabbits although be careful to avoid feeding potatoes (they have toxic parts) lettuce, chicory, chickweed and dandelions (can cause diarrhoea if fed in excess). Extra vitamins, salt licks are not generally required and mine never get any. I also use leaves from blackberries, raspberries, strawberries and other fruit bushes, along with a lot of wild greens during the summer.
Any changes in diet must be made slowly (green stuffs and prepared feeds) over a period of a couple of weeks, to avoid digestive upsets. Fresh water must be available at all times and renewed daily.
To enable your rabbit to extract as much protein, vitamins and minerals from their food as possible, they digest their food twice, these are soft, kidney shaped droppings which are covered in a small amount of mucous. These droppings are very different from the dry round droppings that you will usually see your rabbit passing.
Rabbits are herbivorous and wild rabbits will spend most of their lives grazing on grass, foliage, flowers and roots
Housing
Rabbits can be kept indoors or outdoors, either way they need their own space in an appropriate cage or hutch. There are many purpose built cages and hutches available, alternatively you could build your own. It is recommended that you purchase the best quality you can afford, your rabbit will need it for 7--12 years. Make sure that the hutch is large enough for your rabbit to stretch full out, and high enough for your rabbit to stand upright. Dutch rabbits are generally comfortable in a 4' x 2' hutch. If kept outdoors, the hutch should have a dark enclosed area to provide your rabbit with a quiet space. The main living area should be large enough for your rabbit to stretch full out, and have wire mesh on the door. The hutch should be at least 6" off the floor to provide adequate ventilation. In the winter you can move your rabbits indoors or into a shed. They are also quite happy remaining out of doors, providing extra protection such as an old blanket draped over the front of the hutch at night in very cold weather. Remember rabbits need good ventilation, you cannot therefore leave the cover down permanently otherwise your rabbit will succumb to chest infections from the damp, ammonia or overheating, and rabbits die from all of these.
Bedding
Hay, straw and wood chips all make suitable bedding for rabbits. It is down to personal choice which you use, however, research has shown that rabbits will choose straw rather than wood chip or wire bottomed cages. All bedding should be renewed at least once a week, and the hutch should be washed, scrubbed and disinfected several times per year.
Rabbits can live out doors quite happily at minus 20c or below, all they need is plenty of bedding and a 4 inch layer of shavings
Exercise
Rabbits need regular stimulation and exercise in a safe environment. This can be in a purpose made rabbit run or simply by bringing your rabbit indoors and letting it play in your living room. Rabbits that are playing outside of their hutches, either in a run or indoors, should be supervised at all times and their play area must be 'rabbit proofed' by removing any hazards. Young rabbits will enjoy exercise, but be careful not to over do it, particularly if you are still in the 'getting to know each other' period.
Rabbits are sociable creatures and enjoy the company of humans, dogs, cats and other rabbits if carefully introduced. It is generally suggested that each rabbit has its own hutch (particularly if you intend to show it) as rabbits are like children and prefer not to share 'bedrooms'. They can, however, socialise together in common space, such as rabbit runs, and will like being able to see and hear another rabbit when they are in their own hutches. 2 bucks must never be put together even in a run if they have not been castrated (they will fight).
Rabbits need to be occupied and they love playing with toys. This can include manufactured toys for human babies, birds, cats, dogs, hamsters etc. But rabbits will equally get hours of enjoyment from some very cheap, readily available items in the household, blocks of wood, planks, plastic flower pots
Health
It is recommend that you get your rabbit covered by Pet Insurance as veterinary fees can mount up. Never leave a rabbit in the sole care of a child. As an adult you will have to assume sole responsibility for the health and welfare of your rabbit.
To prevent territorial behaviour of both bucks (males) and does (females), it is suggested that pet rabbits are neutered, if they are not neutered then it should be one rabbit per cage. Never put intact cavies / guinea-pigs in with intact rabbits as they will both sexually abuse each other, cavies / guinea- pigs should be housed with others of the same species. Males can be neutered at around 3-4 months, and does at 6 months. Females over 2-3 years old that are not being regularly bred from are at high risk of developing uterine cancer unless neutered.
Rabbits have little ability to regulate their body temperature and die very easily from heat stroke. Ensure adequate shade is provided at all times. Handle your rabbit daily, and it will generally enjoy your company. Never pick a rabbit up by its ears, and always support your rabbits back and hind quarters when handling. Rabbits can easily experience spinal injuries. Rabbits nails need clipping every 6-8 weeks and teeth should be checked weekly to ensure they are correctly aligned. Rabbits moult 2-4 times a year, only one of these will be heavy (usually late Spring/early Summer).
Seek veterinary advice if your rabbit develops discharges from the eye, nose or mouth, has scabs inside its ears, is passing diarrhoea or mucous, or stops eating and/or drinking. Any ill rabbit must always be given drinking water in a bowl. Water bottles are a clean, hygienic way of providing water if you rabbit is fit and well, but ill rabbits often become listless and will be unlikely to be bothered to lift their heads up to the spout of a bottle and will dehydrate and die very quickly. If at all worried about your rabbit seek Veterinary Advice as sick or injured rabbits die very quickly
Male Rabbit-BUCK (Sire) Female Rabbit-DOE (Dam) Young rabbit- KIT (offspring)
Breeding All rabbits should have their first litter before they reach 12 months old, if this is left until latter complications can set in and 95% of all older female rabbits die. Males can father a litter anytime from 9 months old up to 12 years old.
The doe must be put in with the buck who has to be housed separately and the matting only take a couple of seconds, then for the next three weeks she can be treated just as if she had not be mated only with a slight increase of food, by the 21 st day you should be starting to prepare for the birth by putting lots of hay or straw in the bedding area so that the doe can start to build her nest.
My experience
I have bred, exhibited and owned rabbits since the early 70's, all of my rabbits are healthy and well cared for, they live up to 12 years.
Showing
The Hobby of Breeding %26amp; Exhibiting Rabbits is called 'The Fancy'. Every weekend, all over the country, rabbit shows are taking place. Many are Local Rabbit Clubs holding their single-day shows in places such as Village Halls and Scout Huts. Others are two-day Championship Shows held in Sports Centres and School Halls.
Reply:Yes, your doe is pregnant and should kindle 30 days after the last breeding. The scenerio of breeding you outlined is exactly how it goes. If he doesn't fall off he didn't get her bred.
Dutch rabbits tend to have smaller litters so you should have somewhere between 2 and 6 and I'm putting my bet on 4.
She may start pulling hair for her nest anytime after 25 days but probably not until a day or two before. You'll know the babies are there because if you put your hand near the nest the babies should move. Each baby will find the teat they like best and will sometimes hang on even as mom leaves the nest box. You'll have to watch out for that and carefully put them back. I usually leave mom alone the first day and check for any dead kits on the second day.
It's not rare for the first litter to not go smoothly. Usually the next litter fairs better.
Reply:The above answer pretty much covered it all, from my experience with bunnies and babies you should not touch the babies until they are a couple weeks old. Some moms will not mind if they are very tame and used to you but most rabbits will kill their litter if you touch them and leave your scent...as well some moms are just plain bad so be prepared for your bunny either being a normal mom or being one of the bad ones that could harm her litter...
Reply:A rabbit gestation period is usually around 31 days. It can go either earlier or later. If the does goes more than 35 days she is either not pregnant or the kits have died.
28 days after the doe has been bred you should give her a nestbox with straw in it for her to kindle(give birth) in. Make sure that you keep the doe and buck seperate from now on. The doe will attack the buck and try and kill him to protect the kits. She may also kill the kits if the buck is around too close.
Once the kits are born you will need to check the doe's nest for any dead or deformed kits. they must be removed so the healthy kits will not be compromised. It is NOT true that the doe will kill or abandon the kits if you touch them. I have raised Mini Rex rabbits for 15 years and I handle the kits from the day they are born. You can run your hand over the doe or rub your hand in the fur she pulls before you touch them, that way you will smell like the doe.
I hope you have homes lined up for the kits. Mix breed rabbits are hard to find homes for. You will not get alot of money for them. Also you can think about selling them for the meat. the 2 breeds you mentioned can produce some nice fryers and roasters.
When you breed rabbits the buck has to fall off the doe, this mean he has released sperm into the doe. Does do not release eggs until the sperm is inside them. They do not have a heat cycle like most mammals. They can be more receptive at times but not more fertile.
You can find more info on the American Rabbit Breeders Association
Good luck with your rabbits.
rabbits are a great hobby
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